Red Lodge, MT

Our Montana adventures did not end with the svisit to Lewis and Clark Caverns. On to Basin Campground in the Custer -Gallatin National sForest, where my brother Smoochy AndersonwA his TLs, Gumby and Pokey, awaited. Kin and kindred spirits, all set for exploring an area in southern Montana where none of us had been before!  

This area claims as its own, one of the most scenic drives in the U.S. – and from this Toad’s perspective, it is every bit as stunning as Going to the Sun Road. As was the case in Glacier with Logan’s Pass, here, both sides of the Bear Tooth Pass offer spectacular views of mountains – of a very different character than those to the north and west. Here the mountain tops are flattened into vast plateaus of alpine meadow and spongey tundra.  

Mountain goats and bighorn sheep wander with seemingly little concern for the TL visitors to the area.  

This is also far less traveled than Glacier, and the topography welcomes frequent stops to take in views of rivers, gorges, and valleys below. This time of year, lush green carpets largely tree-bare mountain tops, interspersed with many an icy blue, clear water lake, tumbling waterfall or dancing creek. Naturally, we had to do some walking up here, and opted on one of our days to explore – packing a picnic lunch, of course! 

Yep, that’s Brother Smoochy in the lead pack!

Ah, but the hiking! Brother Smoochy and I accompanied our TLs on some fine days of trekking. Our first jaunt was a shorter venture to Timberline Lake. It’s not a difficult trail, but does cross a number of streams, some of which proved a bit of challenge for my TwoLeggs to cross (especially Minkie, who has a tendency to tip over when trying to balance atop a slippery rock. It’s quite fun to watch!) As is not uncommon in the west, our trail took us through burn areas where once again, charred trunks,now bleached by wind and and sun, are all that remain of a once dense forest. And again, wild flowers grow in dense patches, a chorus of pinks, whites, purples and blues to delight the eye.

Onward and upward we went, carefully picking our way across the less cooperative creeks – until we reached the one too wide to jump, that offered no stones to step on, and of course, was deep and cold enough to on this already chilly day not to invite removing those TL boots. Gumby and Pokey searched for options, and found a conveniently fallen tree that would serve as a bridge. Smoochy and I tried very hard to hide our laughter as watched Carlos and Minkie negotiate this one! We weren’t particularly successful, but to their credit, both made it across without incident. Even if they did look funny doing it!

Once across we could see the water of a nearby lake. Though the path wasn’t quite so evident in this direction, we decided to take a peek. So we followed the creek a short ways down, and sure enough, there was a lake. Carlos and Pokey agreed that it didn’t match the description we had, and Gumby kept trying to tell us we should have turned upstream where the path was more a trail, but none of the other TLs listened. We pressed onward, realizing we weren’t where we ought to be, searching for a trail that turned out not to exist. Note to TLs: When in the woods, it is generally a good idea to pay attention to the trail. Stay on it.

Off we went a-bushwhacking. “Follow the next drainage upward, and we’ll find our lake,” advised our Zen Master, Pokey. Up we went. No burned forest here – instead we were treated to thick forest and underbrush, mosquitoes, and boulder field. Scramble and scrape!  We cheered our TLs onward while we did our best to effect tasty mosquito control in the immediate vicinity.

Be mindful, now TLs! That sky is growing ever more threatening – darkening with every minute, thunder starting to roll in the distance. Each TL took his/her own path, staying in vocal if not visual contact with one another. And finally, we realize we’re at the top! Of something. Though we don’t know exactly where we are, we know that downhill, we have a better chance to find the now lost Timberline Lake.

And YES! Find it we did. First the waters teased us through the timber – then the trees opened up – and just as we reached the shore, the so did the sky! Hail and rain! See how fast the TLs can dig out their rain gear! Hunker down! And since you can’t do anything else, do what you can – EAT! There we all were – crouched on the shore next to some boulders, seeking a little break from the wind. The TLs laughing, eating, listening to the rain and hail, making themselves as comfortable as one can under these conditions. And all the while, there is chatter about finding the trail back. Much attention was given to a tiny path along the shore where fishermen had no doubt traveled.

And suddenly, the hail stops. 

 We all look around – should we go left?  Right?  Oh, wait – there’s two TL dudes on horses! Yesiree. Our TLs figured it out right away.
Though we had stayed a good bit longer then they had, we knew they hadn’t bushwacked up here. Sure enough, once we reached the spot we’d seen them, there it was. An honest to goodness, for real, no kidding trail.   

The way back was a bit easier, if less exciting, with a little more rain, but nothing as dramatic as the storm that had rolled over us earlier. Back at camp, the TLs took a quick dunk in the river (this is a National Forest Campground – no showers here!) to splash away the worst of the dirt and mud, and hopped themselves into warm dry clothes. Gumby cooked a sumptuous dinner – jalapeno chicken with a cheese sauce that sent my TLs into heaven. And shortly afterwards, we all packed ourselves in for good night’s sleep…..

Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park – Whitehall, MT

One very wise Toad once said something about all good things coming to an end. This Toad says all things (good or bad) come to end, but let’s not split frog hairs about it. Anyway, our stay at Glacier came to end as well – several great hikes, lunch with some new friends, beautiful drives through the park, scenery that wouldn’t quit…. Even great weather. But end it did, and on we traveled to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park in southern Montana.  

Who would’ve believed that this too is a little gem of a park? It sits in the middle of nowhere, it seems, in the high desert hills near Whitehall:

Certainly, there aren’t many towns near by; though,if memory serves, the TL’s found a wonderful little lunch stop along the way called the Stray Bullet in the tiny town of Ovando, where the sandwiches are huge, tasty, and carry names like “the Winchester”, “Smith and Wesson”, “Remington”, and such.  Now the Toad doesn’t quite get it, but the TLs were waxing poetic for several days after eating there….

But I digress, once again. L&C Caverns State Park. We had but a day here, so we spent it doing what you might expect – touring the Caverns. These caves were carved from a rock layer formed 350 million years ago, when this entire area was covered by a shallow sea. Yup, that’s a mighty long time ago if you’re a toad!   

Apparently it is still an active cave, with slowly forming ribbons and popcorn, and other such things. We opted for a guided tour. I will pause here, and let Minkie take over: 

We have always said that a good campsite is determined equally by its intrinsic nature, and the nature of the neighbors. In a similar way, a tour is only as good or as bad as the tour guide. Our guide was definitely on the spacey side, unfortunately. However, the caverns were spectacular for their formations!

OK, step aside Minkie. I’ll take it from here. So our guide wasn’t exactly coherent with the history of discovery, and even less so with the formation or general geology of the cave and surrounding area. Still, we had ourselves a wonderful time, so on with the tour….  If you’re a bit leery of night shadows, a cave can be a spooky place: 

But the formations are both breathtaking and whimsical:

Ribbons, called cave bacon!

The Faery Village

And should these not begin to capture your interest, perhaps these next two will?

The Wedding Cake

So, did the Toad have fun?  You bet yer sweet TL booties I did!   This was a colorful, 2 mile walk through fantastic formations that are simply delightful to see.  And with the heat of summer, a cave is a great place to cool off.  

Next up:  Some more exceptionally beautiful hikes in the Custer-Gallatin National Forest!  Hold on to yer hats, partners!

Scenic Point, Glacier National Park

Imagine a hike that starts in forest. Walk a half mile or so, and take notice of the pines – lodgepole among others, the spruce, aspen, birch…. An understory of skunk weed, fern, wildflowers and huckleberry. And suddenly, the forest is gone. Wildflowers and low cedar, juniper perhaps, with the bare bones of remnant trees – trunks bleached by sun and wind, bark long gone, just stunted remains – bleak reminders of the fires that raged only a few years past.   

As you walk, you slowly gain altitude.   To your right – a deep gorge and a roaring creek.  The mountainside opposite is clearly home to mountain goats or bighorn sheep.  Game trails stand out as you search for signs of wildlife.  Ahead the trail takes you ever upwards, and now the gorge is ahead, a carpet of green, the trails no longer evident. 

Here comes another switchback.  Looking around, you notice that here, the wildflowers grow in clumps, rock and bare earth between them. Life is slowly reclaiming this area. Now you traverse the remnants of an avalanche/rockslide. Broken rock, the shards of boulders crunch beneath your feet. Mind your step – the ground falls steeply away beside you. A fall would surely break bones.

Looking up the mountainside in a field of scree – mind your step!

Ever upward, at times the path appears to walk over the side of the earth itself. You have become accustomed to the heights that once intimidated, so long as the track is firm, and the wind blows into the mountainside. This does not mean fear has abandoned you, just become a companion with whom you have reached concordance – he will neither claim your attention, nor leave your side.

The sun is strong this day, in spite of the occasional clouds. Light and shadow dance across the vistas all around you. You can’t help stopping to look at the now distance valleys below, wondering how it is that you are here – up so high, feeling so small, unable to take in the magnificence and beauty of this tiny corner of Glacier National Park.

Suddenly – you reach the saddle. The journey is not done. First, you must arc around the next peak, once again along an open narrow track.
Here the winds are more fierce, forcing you to take note of each step. 

And now – one more ascent, this one short, and easily managed: Scenic Point is yours. 
To one side, the mountains, rivers and valleys. 

To the other – the open rolling plains of Montana. 

The greens, browns, grays and blues of rough craggy snow streaked peaks here – golds and greens of the undulating carpet of grasslands there . It is too much to assimilate.    

No, this was not the spectacular power and scenery of the Highline Trail – but here you find a solemn, understated power all its own – and every bit as captivating.

These are just a few of the highlights of our visit.  We hope you will have a chance to wander here as well, to experience the wonder and dramatic sights that Glacier has to offer.  It is a a gem of a park.  Busy, yes – but we understand why.