Coulter Creek Colors

Although I was up early catching my breakfast, my TLs slept in this morning, until almost 8 o’clock.  They claimed that yesterday’s trek just wore their two legs out.  I scoff.  I had to hop the distance, and for a toad, that’s one heck of journey.  Was I worn out?!   NO.   You TLs are such delicate creatures. 

Claiming sore musculature, Carlos and Minkie opted for a less demanding day – we packed our lunches and headed for the Coulter Creeek Trail out of Pearl Lake.

 

Falling in around Pearl Lake

 
 It is a very pretty woodland hike, made even more captivating with fall colors at their peak in this area.  Off we went, through forest that was once rich with mature lodgepole pine.  The Pine Bark Beetle (and now, Spruce Beetle is surging, though not obvious in this area) has taken its toll. Global warming?  Certainly there hasn’t been sufficient cold weather (multiple nights of 40 below), needed to suppress the population.  And certainly, lack of diversity (both age and species) within the population, and stress of drought, are other contributing factors.  Whatever the causes this has been a wetter year, and regrowth is evident.  And though it is heartbreaking to see only remnants of the lodgepole, beauty abounds with aspen groves, spruce and fir.

 

Aspen groves a glow

 
  
We dined as we did on this hike a few years ago – above an alpine meadow – rich gold in color, rimmed with evergreens and aspens.  

  
Minkie hoped that some stray deer or bear, or any other fourfoot might wander by, but that wasn’t to be.  It didn’t stop us from thoroughly enjoying the rich fall colors, views of lake, Hahn’s peak and even a glimpse or two of the southernmost part of the Medicine Bow Mountains.

We’ve decided that that Steamboat Lake is a great place to be after the Labor Day crowds are gone, and the only folks here are interested mostly in hiking or fishing. This loop in particular, is apparently not popular – no lake view, and a goodly distance from the flush toilets and showers. Perfect for my TLs.   
Back at camp we enjoyed our Happy Hour, shared this evening with Hawkeye.  And to my TL Tallboy – finally, a picture.  Redtail?

  

We hope to be back.

Tomorrow, we meet up with friends in central CO, and from there – to Utah.  Don’t be surprise if the blog goes dark for a while.  There’s not likely to be much cell service, but we’ll do the best we can to keep you posted.   

Starbuck and Beer

Today we took our first real hike of the trip.  And yesirree hawktail, it was a good one!  We had originally planned for another look around Hahn’s Peak Lake, but after talking with our neighbors, we opted instead for a look at Gilpin Lake.  

The hike is not overly strenuous, but when unaccustomed to altitude, the elevation gain wasn’t insignificant.  A rigorous, but not overwhelming trek.  The trailhead is about a 40 minute drive away, due in part to a 4 mile stretch of washboard intensive dirt road.  Talk about making a hoppin’ Toad!  Once we reached the trailhead we found a sizable parking lot – almost full.  Carlos, who of the three of us loves crowds the most (HAH!) was not amused, but didn’t say anything.  And because we were off to yet another later start (t’was nearly noon), we all figured we trail traffic would likely be pretty heavy.

Surprises are often a part of journeys, and this hike proved no exception. We met very few folks along the way.  That was our first surprise.  Those that we did meet were definitely entertaining.  The first couple, walking with a blind and deaf pooch, were headed to a different destination.  We encountered them at the point of sign in, and met them again at the end of the hike.  Time Karma working for sure.  The next group we met was a party of four headed in our same direction/destination.  And it was definitely a party.  They had stopped for a breather, and as we started by, we realized at least a couple of them were quaffing beer. Oh my!  We stop for a moment’s chat, they joked about the brew patrol.  As we started off one of the women laughed about them not being able to get through a day- hike or no hike – without beer or Starbucks…   Minkie is good with the Starbucks part, but a brew would probably land her on her TL little fanny!

On we trekked.   It is a very pretty hike, with about a 2000 foot elevation gain in a little more than 4 miles. It offers some excellent views of the surrounding mountains, meadows, streams, and woodlands.  Minkie, who knows very little about the flora of the region, likes to make up names for what she sees, pointing out things like “fire leaf” and “ice daisies” along the trail.   Like I believe her.  Still, they are descriptive, and she does keep me entertained!   
 

Mountain, meadows, and evidence of bark beetle damage

 
The lake itself is a deep blue alpine lake – and with many a pleasant spot to stop for lunch and drink in the scenery.  As we did just that, the TLs resting their tired two legs. Much to our surprise, there was no else visible anywhere around the lake.  Across from us we could see one lone traveler at Gilpin Pass who appeared to be taking pictures of what we understand is an incredible view.  And while we relaxed, the clouds began to gather in earnest. We could fell the wind rise, hinting at the 20% chance of rain predicted earlier this morning. Time to head back.

 

Clouds gathering

 
We hadn’t gone more than a half mile or so back down the mountain, when we met up with the Beer and Starbucks party. They were quite happy, having partaken of additional adult beverages, totally unconcerned with weather, shelter, or the fading warmth as the afternoon headed towards early evening. We again exchanged pleasantries, and continued our respective journeys in opposite direction.

 

Exchanged pheasantries with this ol’ hen, too

 
Within the next 10 minutes the rain started.  It was one of those skies that looked like it might give up, and give us the sun. Unable to decide that it was really worth the bother of putting on rain gear, we just walked on. Over the next several miles, the rain would come and go, sometimes barely a mist, sometimes it felt like like hail. Occasionally, we heard a bit of thunder.  Lucky for my TLs, it was never hard enough to be a soaking rain, so by the time we got home they were just a bit damp.  Though, had it been a problem, we were offered this place to use by good buddy, Bucktooth Paddlebutt.

  

 

Tomorrow?  Another hike….  

Slo Mo at the Laudro-Mo

Having arrived a bit late yesterday, the camp host told the TLs not to worry with paying the first night’s fee – so long as we were going to be here a few days, we could ride up to the Visitor Center in the morning and pay the whole kit and kaboodle.  Taking that advice, we set up camp, had a quick dinner, admiring the fading sunlight on the mountains and meadow behind us, and fell into bed.  This morning after the ever important hot coffee on a very cold morning (mid 30’s again last night), off we went, first to the VC to get right with the regulators, and then to Comfort Station to do laundry.

All went going according to plan until we hit the laundry. Two of the three washers were out of order, the lone one working was well, working, and the couple had just gotten started – with another load waiting in the wings. I tried to tell the TLs they needn’t worry about such things, but I might as well have been trying to tell a bird not fly. They opted to wait it out, afraid that they might lose their place in line. . 
No problem. Minkie and I would attempt to post, Carlos would……wait.

And wait we all did. The washer had to be one of the slowest (and smallest) machines ever made.  It would take us two loads as well. Good thing we didn’t have to be anywhere! One of the things we come to appreciate when we wander like this is that most of the time all goes according intention, but to steal from the thoughts of a good friend – if you want to make the fates laugh, tell ‘em your plans.

Eventually we did manage to get a couple of hours of walking in – taking the Willow Creek Trail around the lake. 

 

On the lake trail, with Hahn’s Peak in the distance

 
 Oh yes – and for my Tallboy pal, we did see yet another hawk, and even attempted a picture, but gosh darn it, those birdlips refuse to stay still for very long. But never you mind, good buddy Tallboy – we’ll keep on tryin’ so you just stop yer fretting.

 

Meadows and Mountains around Steamboat Lake

 
Tomorrow – Hiking!

A Pearl in Its Own Right

Oh my oh my oh my.  The poor TLs!  What a Lo-n-n-n-n-g drive we had, in spite of leaving Sterling just before 8 this morning.  Road work.  A marathon through Poudre Canyon (the 80 miles of road is quite two lane, and already quite narrow).  An hour’s wait before being served lunch. (Yes it was pizza, but really, an HOUR?!!! Luckily, it was really, really good, or I think the TLs would have started crying adult tears.  Well, semi-adult tears.)

This was the day of the rapture. We saw more hawks than we’ve seen in forever – perhaps due to recent harvests leaving the wee creatures exposed.  Though we saw them throughout the grasslands as well.  Pure Raptor.

We also saw many an antelope, some in pasture with cattle, others on the craggy hillsides of the prairie. Had the drive not been quite so long and torturous (thank you delays) Minkie would have had Mr Carlos pull over for pictures.

Eventually though, we made it.  Along the way the TLs asked for my opinion about whether to set up in Pearl Lake or Steamboat.  Pearl Lake is beautiful.   But when we called for information,  the recording (somewhat garbled with poor cell service) seemed to say that the restrooms had been recently upgraded, but water was currently turned off.  Or maybe it said off in just one loop.  Or maybe just upgraded in one loop.  In any case, there are no showers there (you are allowed to use the showers and laundry at nearby Steamboat Lake), and no electricity.  And the Toad just looked at my poor addle-braineds TLs and said “You think there is a decision needed?  REALLY?!” Luckily, they didn’t run out steam before getting here.
Just a few miles separate the two parks, so luckily, they listened to me, and we drove the extra distance for electricity.  Heat is nice in cold weather.  Both parks are situated in northern Colorado near the base of Hahn’s Peak, north of a little known ski resort – Steamboat Springs.  Steamboat is a large park encompassing Steamboat Lake (1055 acres), massive meadows, hiking trails, two large campgrounds (each with multiple loops), and a marina.  Now lest you say to yourself, this does not sound like a place Carlos and his Crowd would enjoy, remind your TL self that this is the latter third of the month, night time temps are in the mid-thirties, and the water sporters don’t generally find this to be the choice season for those activities.  While there are folks here, the less popular of the loops (those without a view of the lake) are not heavily occupied.  And they have fewer sites.

Carlos snagged a pull-through that is quite private, with steps leading down to a picnic table, tent pad, and fire ring below the camper.   We discovered our neighbors hail from Montrose, are avid gardners, and teach music. They also play in a band, and we all decided there just might be a little guitar pickin’ one of these nights.

Tomorrow: Pictures and adventures! (and – boo, hiss – laundry) 

North Sterling SP – Colorado

The TLs woke this toad from his deep, happy sleep much too early this morning, claiming that we had to stop and replenish our provisions in addition to the usual stop for lunch. “Out Of Bed, TOAD! We got places to go, things to do, pictures to take, camps to set up!  Make it quick, Roadie – Breakfast awaits!”   Uh huh. That would be a breakfast bar and coffee for the TLs, and early morning moth-eats for me – hardly anything to get overly excited about.  Oh well, good things were yet to come. 
We said good by to the Badlands, heading south through the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, of the Lakota and Oglala Sioux. I’m not sure exactly how that works among the tribes/nations, so forgive any errors in nomenclature or identification. It is a huge reservation – miles and miles high, rolling hills so typical of this area, and along the roads we traveled, many a ranch to be seen. It wasn’t until we reached the Nebraska border that we saw the poorer/sadder side of the reservation. A tiny town, with what appeared to be out of work adults, sitting on the ground, backs to the walls of long closed storefronts. Poverty is never easy to witness, even for a Toad.

On through the farmlands of Nebraska, we rode, and just across the border into Colorado, we saw our first GINORMOUS wind farm that seemed to line the entire rim of the plateau. Windmills, windmills, windmills, as far as the eye could see donned the landscape stretching out from each side of the highway. What a sight! I asked Carlos and Minkie about the miles and miles of underground wires of some type that must be associated with these giants. How do these things harvest the wind, and where is the power stored? They had not ready answer that this poor amphibian mind brain grasp, so I told them to go do some homework. We’ll see what they come up with.

Oh. You probably want to know a little about Sterling Park. It has several campgrounds – we chose a site along what used to be the banks of the reservoir, and would be still, except now the water is really, really, really low. So there is still a reservoir, but it’s much smaller than in years past. Large enough though to support two huge flocks of white pelicans – though due to the lighting, they appear grey in this photo. 

 

Nest morning these few birdlips turned into a hundred or more WHITE pelicans

 
 Our site has electricity, but no water, as is typical in this part of the country. It is reasonably full, with the other campers not particularly boisterous, so we’ve been able to sit outside and enjoy view.

 

 Next up – Steamboat Lake

Peek-a-Blue

This morning started with a weather prediction of harsh thunderstorms traveling fast into our area, bringing with it potentially much colder temperatures.   The TLs, being the careful hikers that they are, decided not to tempt fate, and instead took a casual morning off.  We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, reading, and got out a few warmer garments as sunny skies gave way to clouds, wind, rain, and falling temperatures.   

Now as you might expect, staying Casita bound can only satisfy these TLs so long, and before a toad tongue can catch a flyby, they were starting to get just a little bit stir crazy. Yes, those of you who know them will say to yourselves “Crazy? But, how could you tell?” But the toad digresses.

Eventually, they said to their TL selves “We got to get out of this place. If it’s the last thing we ever do…” (Hey, hey – rock and roll is here to stay.)   Anyway, off we went.  Out first stop was to check out the fossil exhibit, which was interesting, but not exactly captivating.  Perhaps if it hadn’t been raining, and the wind strong enough to nearly blow you off the boardwalk (even the birds were intimidated – we watched several hop to shelter beneath us) we might have enjoyed it a little more.  Afterwards, Minkie suggested that we head further west in search of buffalo (to which Carlos and I gave a mighty scoff).  Lucky for us all, just a half mile or so down the road, we spotted a pair of long horned sheep. They might even have been the ramblers from yesterday.

 

Handsome fellas, don’t you think?

 
Carlos decided that we might have better hiking conditions if we moved to the other side of the park, where the skies seemed to be clearing.  So, off we went, to the Northeast Road and the trailhead there.  This time, we picked up the Castle Trail traveling eastward, for what turned out to be an exceptionally fun little hike.   It’s an easy walk that takes you through areas that reminded us of some of Utah’s canyons, though on a somewhat diminished scale.

By this time, the clouds really were beginning to break up, giving occasional glimpses of deep, uncluttered blue behind the spires around us. And of course, watching the towering sandstone ridges and the prairie below fall in and out of sunlight and shadow only enhanced the walk that much more.

 

PeekaBlu Sky

 
We are at the end of our stay.  While this can be a very crowded park, it seems to cater more to those who prefer abbreviated visits.  Turnover is fairly rapid, and while it is quite busy, for the majority of time, it has been quite pleasant.  For whatever reason, it’s a campground that seems to grow on you.   Even this Toadster found much to enjoy, and would recommend that if you have it, take the opportunity to come and visit. It is a remarkable place to experience, and well worth the effort.

  
Tomorrow: Colorado Here We Come!

Here we go Loopty Loo

Today was noticeably cooler than it has been so far along our travels….. Time for some long sleeves in the morning – perfect weather for hiking!  While there are a handful of one way trails that offer some disctance, there is only one loop of significance – a section of the Castle Trail coupled with the Medicine Root Trail, accessed either by Saddle Pass, or by a Trailhead off Old Northeast Road.  In any case, your best bet is to go earlier, before too many folks get the same idea.
Once again the TLs were up before 7, enjoyed a hot breakfast, and were ready for a morning wander.  Off we all went. We opted to start at Saddle Pass again. On the way up we met a couple who had gone only as far as the Pass, and seen a couple of bighorn rams in the prairie at the top. We hoped we might luck out, but by the time we got there, there were none to be seen, regardless of where we rambled.   Sigh.

No matter.  Eastwardly we walked along the Castle Trail marveling once more at the incredible geology of this area. We were told it is “rapidly” eroding, so there is little concern (other than for rattlesnakes) with exploring off the trail – just be sure to take your bearings – it’s easy to lose your perspective in this country!

 Watching the changing light against the spires is incredibly humbling. We realized how wondrous these formations are, how lucky are to be able to take them in. Walking along Castle Trail, we rounded a corner and were greeted with both a sandstone Toadstool for Moi, along with my very own arch.

  
At this point, looking to the right there is sand and sandstone:

  
To the left, open grassy prairie:

  
They seem two separate worlds, brought together in this high land to dance their respective dances, seemingly frozen in time. We are observers of but a fractional moment in their lifetime unable to fully appreciate the cadence of geologic perspective. Will the prairie give way to sand and spire, or will it hold the effort of wind and water to carve new sculptures?

Only a little way further, the trail opens into a humongous flat bottomed bowl, surrounded by mountain spires. Within the bowl, there are areas of flat prairie grasses, and areas where erosion is beginning its slow, steady process of forming new chasms, canyons, spires, hoodoos, and hills. Awesome.

Pictures don’t quite seem to do justice to nature’s majesty, but we take them anyway, hoping to give an inkling of the surrounding beauty.

We came back along the Medicine Root Trail which winds its way across the prairie. Some call in boring, but my TLs didn’t seem to feel that way. Less dramatic, but every bit as beautiful, grasses, wildflowers, a high seep with cottonwoods and wetland plants…. Diversity more subtle, captivating in its own way.

  
Back at the ranch the TLs opted for an early evening, and dinner at the Lodge. I’m told they dined on “Sioux Tacos” – flat bread, refried beans, buffalo meat, lettuce, cheese, tomatoes and black olives, with sour cream and salsa on the side. They were fine, but not in the “awesome” category. Local brews (a pricey $7 a pop) were quite tasty.

The weather is supposed to continue its cooling trend, so the TLs are bringing out some polartec vests. Might have travel in a pocket tomorrow…. 

  

Into the Badlands

One thing I’ve noticed about the TLs. Get them into new territory, and they seem to wake up with the sun. This morning they saw the sun as it came over the spires to the east of the campground, taking quiet appreciation of this truly beautiful, if inhospitable land.
After a leisurely breakfast, off we went to the Visitor Center/Lodge/Restaurant/Gift Store, hoping to get more information on the park, the trails, the history and geology. We were disappointed. Boo hoo! The kindly fellow behind the sales counter offered a few suggestions on hikes – basically, he advised to spend no more than 15 minutes walking out one of the main trails, then drive around to another access point and do the same. Minkie thought he must be jaded. This is incredibly beautiful, if you just look.   
So we decided to explore a bit of the park by vehicle, taking the Badlands Loop road which is quite full of lay-bys for picture taking. We went as far as the “Homestead Overlook” which looks down on the Conata Basin below, where homesteaders were once granted a quarter section of that area, with divisions made with no consideration of natural boundaries or other features – just platted squares. The homesteaders didn’t last long, and quite honestly, I’m not sure if better thought had been used whether it would have mattered much. The winds that blow in are harsh and fierce. The summer heat is unbearable. The winters brutal. There were/are prairies with sudden outcroppings of these dry, fast eroding spires and sudden chasms and canyons that will quickly confuse even skilled trackers. Definitely not for toads without trusted TLs to hop with. It’s hard to adequately describe the landscape, so perhaps I’ll just post a few pictures.

Looking down into Conata Basin

 

Looking out into the prairie….

 
Now lest you think that we are a lazy car riding bunch, let me assure you we also took a bit of a hike up the Saddle Pass Trail to the Castle Trail, where we took off westward to see what we could see. Which was high prairie, and miniature versions of Kodachrome and Goblin Valley. Impressive in a very different way, equally fascinating, equally beautiful.

 

Along the Castle Trail

 
Returning back to camp, we enjoyed our traditional HH – and were joined by one my long earred friends. As she nibbled on grasses, I snared flybys and moth-ers, and the TLs munched on cheese and crackers, we all watched the changing light against the spires as clouds slowly moved in. Once again, the winds kicked up, and just as we were almost ready to head in, rain came! It lasted only a couple of minutes, but helped cool things down a bit more, and then provided the evening’s entertainment – watching lightening jump cloud to cloud in the distant skies north and east of us. Not a bad way to end an evening!

  

The Badlands of South Dakota

As we left Nebraska and entered South Dakota, the topography continued its rolling hills, with the crops gradually changing to a predominance of corn, hay and cattle.  The closer we got to our destination, the more the hills began to resemble those from “Dances With Wolves,” though you have to replace farm lands with prairie grasses. Still, it is quite striking.
  
We also discovered there is a dearth of grocery stores, gas stations, and places to grab lunch between the two parks.  The lunch thing is impossible if it’s after 1 pm.  Good thing we have crackers!

Arriving a Badlands (called mako sika by the Lakota Sioux) is something akin to the surprise ending in the Bruce Willis movie “The Sixth Sense”.   Stop at the entrance gate, pay a fee, if applicable, drive 100 yards and BAM! There are some of the baddest of the Badlands.  The features are hard to describe – they seem to arise out of nowhere – grey, tan knife edged spires – resembling the backs of a thousand jumbled stegasaurs. 

  

  
Another couple miles down the road, past the lodge and visitor center, lies the campground.  It is a little different than the other campgrounds we’ve been staying in, and somewhat reminiscent of Escalante, only bigger.  Now this is both a good thing and a bad thing.   There are sites with electricity, and those without.  That’s a good thing.   Water spigots are in the center of the campground (bad thing), but you can fill your tank from a potable spigot (good thing) just beyond the dump station (good thing they have one).   The sites are not much of a site (bad thing), basically, the road widens, and you pull over.  Because the sites with electricity are all on the inner side of the (very important here:) One Way Loop, the camper door opens into the road (bad thing).  It has the feng shui of a circular parking lot.  There is a sheltered picnic table (good thing) on the grass beside each pull aside – and the shelter is much needed, as there are no trees, no other shade to be found. They don’t call this the Badlands for nothin’!  Oh, and there’s been a pretty strong wind blowing, strong enough to shake, rattle, but not roll the trailer (bad thing, bad thing, good thing).  We hope it stays that way!  

As for the comfort station – it is adequate. Showers have a single hook outside, and bench inside, though it is in the direct line of spray from the shower, so don’t make the mistake of putting anything there you want to keep dry! Like most in this part of the country, you pay for the shower, though the fees are quite reasonable. Bring your quarters!

Tomorrow, the Visitor Center for some history lessons, and later some hikes!

Niobrara Nights

In case you haven’t figured it out by now, Minkie likes her coffee.  Even when it’s not her own brew, but that power stuff you dissorlve in hot water.  Make it reasonably strong, reasonably hot, add a little cream, and she’s a contented TL.  And so began the morning. Coffee, oatmeal, and a banana – a typical TL camp breakfast, particularly nice on a cool morning.

The best part of a cool morning is you need a little something to help a T shirt keep you warm.  Carlos had taken off for the park office for hiking information, and Minkie stayed back to finish up dishes, and take a short walk to the laundry facility.  As she grabbed her hoodie to keep her warm, she heard a familiar little jingle jangle of ….. Lo and Behold.  There were the long lost keys!!!  Feeling rather stupid and happy all at once I saw her do the happy dance followed by the fist pump.  YES!
No need to search for a key maker. No additional stop to make. We’re once again a happy family.
After the morning chores were done, we all took off to explore the park.  The layout is interesting, the park office a mile or so from the camping area, and there is a 3 mile loop for tent camping, that offers spots just off the road – many of which provide very nice views of the Niobrara river and valley.  
  

According to the literature, the park is home to deer, turkeys (and we saw 4 parading through the campground this evening), beaver, muskrat and mink. Whippoorwills and coyote are in the area, though we’ve heard none of that particular music. 

Deciding that our legs needed a little workout, we headed off down to the Niobrara itself, and to an old steel bridge, now used for foot traffic and fishing. 

  
From it you can see some of the river bluffs and perhaps some of that coccolith-derived chalk layer that TallBoy TL commented on. (BTW, thank you all commenters! My poor little toad brain hasn’t figured out whether I can post a reply, but Minkie said she’d help me figure it out).  
Bottom line, It’s a park we’d come back to again, particularly this time of year!
Tomorrow:  BADLANDS!